Dining In Newfoundland
Surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, with the lush farmland of the Codroy Valley and other areas, and its barrens and wooded lands overflowing with local berries, Newfoundland and Labrador is bound to be a diner’s delight. One intriguing feature about Newfoundland cuisine is that island chefs take fresh, local ingredients and use them in international recipes to create unique dishes. Braised moose with Newfoundland savory and local chives, seafood quiche, and wild blueberry cheesecake are sample fare.
The province’s culinary scene unites hundreds of years of tradition with the bounty of the region and the inspiration of the landscape. Newfoundland delicacies are a combination of Irish, Scottish, English, French and aboriginal influences. In first-class restaurants, cozy cafés, lively pubs, and varied eateries across the island, visitors can experience a taste of Newfoundland and Labrador.
Many tourists may have never heard of some island dishes such as doughboys (dumplings), colcannon (a vegetable mash), or toutons (fried bread dough). Tourists are usually eager to try local favorites such as cod tongues or pea soup made with salt beef. Of course, nobody wants to leave Newfoundland without trying the traditional ‘Jigg’s Dinner’ – salt beef boiled with cabbage, potatoes, turnips, carrots, and one or more puddings (savory peas pudding, sweet raisin, or blueberry pudding). Newfoundland ‘scoffs’ (meal of plenty) are created around these island favorites.
Fine dining in Newfoundland includes excellent food and fine wines. Newfoundland produces exceptional local wines made from island berries such as bakeapples, blueberries, and partridgeberries. Even iceberg wine – wines made with the purest water- centuries-old pure water taken from icebergs off Newfoundland’s shores!
Auk Island Winery in Twillingate makes fine wines such as Blueberry Iceberg Wine – a blend of low-bush Newfoundland berries and iceberg water. Auk Island Winery even makes a strawberry-partridgeberry blend called ‘Jellybean Row’ – named after the brightly-colored houses in downtown St. John’s. Of course, local berries also find their way into other sweet treats. ‘Growlers’ ice cream shop in Joe Batt’s Arm showcases locally hand-crafted ice cream made with regional ingredients.
Recommended in “Where to Eat in Canada - 2010-2011 Edition”
According to the “Where to Eat in Canada - 2010-2011 Edition,” The Twine Loft (or Net Loft) in Trinity is one of the best places to eat in Canada. The restaurant sits on the site of fishing premises owned by Captain Barbour and rebuilt by Moses Kelly in 1940. The Twine Loft offers superb candlelight dining in a spectacular setting with a marvelous view of the bay.
A typical menu includes dishes such as terrine of smoked salmon, cod provencal with rice pilaf, green beans sautéed in sesame oil, mesclun salad with herbed vinaigrette and blue cheese, as well as frozen lemon mousse with wild berry coulis. The restaurant offers vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free choices, as well as gift certificates for dinners, champagne, wine, and gift baskets. The Twine Loft premises also provides live music performances as well as a variety of workshops.
Dining in St. John’s
Dining in St. John’s, Newfoundland’s capital city, is a distinct and flavorful experience. St. John’s has the usual fast-food chains - McDonald's, Wendy's, Burger King, and more. Yet because of the layout of the city, fast food is often served with a view of the city waterfront or the Southside Hills. Most restaurants along the harbor open up patio spots in pleasant weather.
Of course, St. John’s serves up much more than fast food. From charming cafés, to pub restaurants and ‘Mom and Pop’ establishments, to fine dining, the city has tasty dishes to suit everyone’s appetite. Check out the ‘Mom and Pop’ places for super-sized servings. Naturally, local seafood figures big on St. John’s menus. Fresh cod, lobster, clams, oysters, scallops, and shrimp, as well as salmon and halibut, are served in city restaurants. Local chefs are always busy cooking up seasonal dishes such as codfish chowder or sautéed scallops.
A Newfoundland Tradition
Ches’s Fish N’ Chips
Started by Ches Barbour and celebrating its 60th year in business in 2010, Ches’s Famous Fish N’ Chips is a Newfoundland tradition. The story of its origin has as much Newfoundland flavor as the restaurant’s tasty cod. The tradition of serving ‘Ches’s Choice Cod’ began in 1951 with Ches Barbour’s commitment to serve only the best and freshest fish. Every morning, Ches would steam out the Narrows in St. John’s for the day’s catch. That fresh cod would be served at noon in Ches’s first store on Freshwater Road.
This flagship store location, in the center of St. John’s, is still a thriving operation. Now ‘Ches’s Famous Fish N’ Chips’ has four additional stores - on Topsail Road and Highland Drive in St. John’s, in Mount Pearl, as well as Gander. Of course, as good as the fish is, people also come for the quaint atmosphere (including Jen’s Kitchen) and friendly service at the Ches’s locations. You’re sure to meet a friend at Ches’s!
Newfoundland Berries – Island Jewels
Newfoundland berries come in an assortment of colors - amber yellows, scarlet reds, and indigo blues. These ‘Newfoundland jewels’ grow on green rolling hills, in soft marshes, and on windswept barrens. It costs nothing to pick the island’s berries but the experience itself is priceless and the sweet or tart berries are just part of the reward.
Bakeapple
Newfoundland's most famous amber berry is the bakeapple. The bakeapple (also known as the cloudberry) resembles another Newfoundland berry - the ruby wild raspberry. The bakeapple has a firmer texture and a more tart taste. When you are berry picking in Newfoundland, no smog or air pollution separates you from billowing clouds and blue skies.
Indeed, the story of the bakeapple on Newfoundland marshes has a touch of romance about it. The sprawling, mysterious marshes – home to the bakeapple - add to the atmosphere. Unlike most berries in its Robus species, the bakeapple does not self-pollinate, therefore, the bakeapple does require a plant of the opposite gender. Newfoundland's amber jewel is right at home in this romantic setting. On a further journey, the bakeapple often finds its way into many romantic dinners - in bakeapple brandy, bakeapple meringues, and bakeapple parfaits.
Partridgeberry
The most vibrant red Newfoundland berry is the partridgeberry. This deep red treasure represents strength. The partridgeberry is also known as the lingonberry and is a member of the cranberry family. The partridgeberry survives in the dry, barren lands of Newfoundland.
Sparkling glass jars filled with bright red partridgeberry jam delight the senses as much as any treasured jewel. The partridgeberry can be the secret ingredient in a delicate wine. Matching its down-to-earth beginning, this tart berry is also used in comfort desserts such as partridgeberry shortcake or partridgeberry berry cottage pudding.
Wild Blueberry
The Newfoundland wild blueberry is like no other blueberry on earth. Newfoundland, with its mixed climate, gives birth to this indigo gem. The Newfoundland blueberry bears no resemblance to its cultivated cousins. It grows in intense colors on low shrubs in forests, in meadows, and on coastal headlands. Wild blueberries will always appear on any list of super foods. These sweet berries are an excellent source of vitamin C, niacin, manganese, carbohydrates, and dietary fibre.
You can enjoy an unforgettable experience in the Newfoundland wilds while picking these delicious berries. As night settles on this beautiful island, end your day with a glass of blueberry wine. Don't forget to set the alarm though for your blueberry pancake breakfast.
Maybe in the morning, Newfoundland can offer you three of its best - a granola parfait with soft bakeapples and blueberry pancakes with partridgeberry berry sauce. Of course, if you really want, you can stick with ordinary, dry cereal. It's your choice! Anyway, the day always starts better - and the sun rises first - in Newfoundland and Labrador.
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